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| With Charlene at the start of Dewdney Trail - Cascades Trailhead Photo credit: Dee Molinari |
Ever since I ran the Brigade 50 miler in 2018, I always wanted to hike the HBC 1849 Brigade Trail. This is a historic route through the Cascade Mountains, used by the Hudson Bay Company Brigades to haul supplies in one direction and furs for trading in the other direction.
Plans change. My original plan was to do an 8 night, 9 day hike from Penticton to Hope. The plan was to fly to Penticton on a morning flight, then hike into town from the airport, to pick up food supplies, gas canister, water and bear spay. Then set off and follow the Kettle Valley Railway (KVR) Trail to Tulameen, then from there the HBC Brigade Trail to Hope. I'd camp along the way - some of it wild camping, some if it in designated camp areas, and I would resupply in Penticton, allowing me to carry four to five days food at a time.
Then the massive storms of 2021 destroyed large sections of the KVR. So much so that long stretches of the hike would now be on adjacent roads. This really did not appeal to me. Short sections would be fine. So the new plan was to fly to Penticton and get supplies there, then take the BC Transit bus to Colemont. Camp there, then hike the road to Tulameen, then the HBC Trail to Hope.
Then the destructive wildfires of 2023 meant that going to Penticton this year was was not an option. Another area of interest was hiking in E.C. Manning Provincial Park, and connecting to the HBC Trail from there. So the final plan was to start the hike at Cascades Trailhead in E.C. Manning Provincial Park, and end the hike in Hope - about 80 km over four nights.
September 1, 2023 - Punchbowl Pass (18 km)
Randy and Dee dropped Charlene and me off at the Cascade Trailhead about 9:30am on Friday morning. We had left Victoria in my Westy on the 9 pm ferry the day before and camped at Coquihalla Campground in Hope. Saying goodbye, we set off along the Dewdney Trail with our planned camping spot at the Tulameen ranger station and horse camp. Dewdney Trail was used after the HBC Trail, around 1860s. This was a far more gentle trail for horses, though it was longer than HBC 1849 Trail, and made an easier route over the Cascades.
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| Climbing the Whatcom Trail to Punchbowl Pass Photo credit: Charlene Waldner |
A few kilometres from the trailhead and we arrived at the junction with the Whatcom Trail - another historic trail. Whatcom Trail climbs steeply over Punchbowl Pass, whereas Dewdney Trail takes a narrow valley and accesses the Tulameen River headwaters via a much lower elevation. I asked Charlene if she wanted the "easy" route, or the "adventurous" route. She chose adventurous, so we set off along the Whatcom Trail.
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| Punchbowl Pass - Elevation 1800 metres |
We both had done this trail before, in the 2019 Fat Dog race. I was running the 120 mile, so this climb was at night - I remember getting to the Pass around midnight. For Charlene, who ran the 70 mile event, this was early in her race and in the daytime. The climb was as steep and steeper than I remembered. But it was so nice to see it in daylight and enjoy the views. With 15 kilos on our backs - loaded with five days of food, two litres of water each, and all our gear - we climbed slowly, but steadily. We started at 800 metres above see level and reached the Pass at 1800 metres above sea level - a nice 1000 metres climb.
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| Punchbowl Lake from Punchbowl Pass Photo credit: Charlene Waldner |
The climbing seemed to go on forever, and I resisted the urge to check my Garmin for elevation, knowing there was a lot still left to go. Looking up at the mountains didn't help either, knowing that we had to reach the Pass between those high peaks. We made stops on the way up for breaks and to take the packs off. It was out first day and we had to adjust to hiking with packs. Just before the pass we stopped for lunch. Our rule is to eat perishables first, then heaviest foods next. While it was a sunny day, it was cold in the Pass and I had to put extra layers on.
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| Heading down from Punchbowl Pass |
Finally once in the Pass, the views of Snass Mountain and Punchbowl Lake made it all worth the climb. From here it was all down hill to Tulameen Camp. On the north side of the Pass the undergrowth was quite wet. Our feet were soon soaked with water brushing off vegetation and running down our legs.
We stopped for a break at Snass View Camp - really just a meadow with an outhouse close by. The sun was out and resting in the sun lying against the packs felt wonderful. And this is why I love hiking so much. While we had a destination, we could actually stop anywhere for a break, or even to setup camp. As we were in EC Manning Provincial Park., we had a back-country registration ($5 each for one night) and this would allow us to camp anywhere in the back-country in the park, provided we were more than five kilometres from a road.
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| Taking a break at Snass View Camp Photo credit: Charlene Waldner |
We met a Polish couple from Hope who had hiked up for two nights and planned to day-hike to the summit of Snass Mountain the next day. We continued on our way. An easy flat hike on the Dwedney Trail another five kilometres to Tulameen Camp. We stopped at a stream before camp to fill our water bottles as I was not confident there was a water source at the camp.
As it turned out there wasn't - the stream we filled up at appeared to be the closest water supply.
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| Snass Mountain viewed from Tulameen Camp |
I loved Tulameen Camp. There was ranger station, corrals for horses, and an outhouse, complete with toilet paper. And we had it all to ourselves. In fact, our closest neighbours were the Polish couple who were over five kilometres away at Snass View Camp. The view of Snass Mountain was fantastic in the setting sunlight. After pitching the tents on the grass, we had dinner (macaroni and cheese, with dried vegetables and skip jack tuna (next heaviest meal with had with us)). Then we sat on the porch of the ranger station and watched the sun set on Snass Mountain, and a rat running under our feet.
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| Tent Setup at Tulameen Camp |
Unfortunately the ranger station was locked up and a notice saying it was for parks staff only.
September 2, 2023 - Whitecloud (16 km)
We woke to a beautiful sunny morning, with a heavy dew on everything. We laid out the tents in the sun to try to dry them off before packing up. Breakfast of oats and dried fruits.
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| Drying out in the morning sun |
We got going around 9:40 am and back-tracked to the water source to fill our bottles. Once that was done, we headed out on the Whitecloud Trail that took us west and out of E.C Manning Provincial Park. The trail was a pleasant hike. climbing a bit a first but then a rolling gentle trail. It finally gave way to an old logging road which we followed down to the Tulameen Forest Service Road (FSR). The hottest day of our hike, and we slowly removed layers until we were in shorts and t-shirts for the remainder of the day.
After a stop to fix some feet issues and a lunch opportunity in a sunny spot, we carried on. Crossing Tulameen FSR we found the connector trail to the HBC 1849 Trail. Unfortunately, this trail had a lot of blow downs at the start, and was hard to follow in the middle. We went off-course but a bit of searching and we found the old faded trail flagging tape. The trail crossed Pudunk Creek at a beautiful location, where the river flows over smooth rocks. We stopped and filtered water here. Then a short but steep climb up the hill to join the HBC 1849 Trail.
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| Podunk Creek - our second day water source as we crossed it |
We hiked eastbound from here about nine kilomeres to Horseguard Camp. Horseguard is at the bottom of a super-steep 100+ metres descent in a bend in the Tulameen River. It's called Horseguard because it was a natural corral, with the wall of the mountain on one side, and the river on the other three sides. Brigades would simply let the horses loose here overnight.
Once again we had the camp to ourselves, and setup the tents on flattish spots. Being in a small valley we didn't have the great views of the night before, but it was warmer and dryer overnight. The camp had food caches (bear safe), an outdoor open toilet, and an information sign including the history of the site. Freeze-dried meal for dinner along with a freeze-dried dessert (chocolate mousse). Sunset was at 8 pm so we were usually in our sleeping bags and asleep by 9 pm.
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| Horseguard Camp |
There is something about being out in the wilderness and knowing there is nobody within many kilometres of us. The next closest camp was six kilometres away on the top of a mountain. And very likely there was nobody there. I was so grateful that I had my InReach with us, as that was the only means of communication with the outside world. The InReach allowed us to send and receive messages to or from texts or emails, and also had an SOS button in case of need for evacuation. I was also glad Charlene was there - not only to share the adventure, but for safety. Charlene knows me well and is experienced in the back-country.
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| Luxury in the back-country - throne with a view |
September 3, 2023 - Davis Pass (20 km)
Weather forecast for today was increasing cloud and rain starting at about 6 pm, though that was supposed to stop by morning. After breakfast, we packed up our tents, which were dry after a dew-free night. Then we set off back the way we came. I wasn't looking forward to that super-steep climb right at the get-go, but it wasn't too bad. Once up, it was mostly an easy hike on a really smooth forest trail. Smooth for the most part. Some stream crossings required some navigation as the trail had been wiped out.
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| We were being watched..... |
Once past the Whitecloud Junction, we had four kilometres to Jacobson Lake. We arrived there around 2 pm. There was a couple in a camper-van there who had driven in on the FSR and went for a day-hike to Conglomerate Flats. We tried to get water from the lake, but it was so muddy that it would have jammed up my filter, so we decided to not bother and risk finding water on the climb over Davis Pass.
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| Way we came- Whitecloud/HBC Trail Junction |
As we started the climb, it became misty and light sprinkling of rain. As we were climbing, the rain actually felt nice and kept us cool. As it got more intense we stopped to put rain covers on our packs. The climb to Conglomerate Flats was in forest and not too steep at all. We had no view on the flats as cloud hung low down the mountain, obscuring the view of Davis Mountain and most of the flats. We continued to climb to the Pass, and just before the summit, I saw on the map on my watch we were less than 20 metres from Palmer's Pond. But we couldn't see it due to the heavy cloud we were hiking in. I saw a side-trail so we followed that steeply down and came to the shore of the small lake. We filtered water here for the night, and added another layer as it was cold when we stopped.
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| Climbing to Conglomerate Flats in drizzle and cloud. |
Back on trail and we summited the pass at 1840 metres, just 40 metres higher than Punchbowl Pass. An easy climb as Jacobson Lake was at 1440 metres, so only a 400 metres climb. On the other side of the pass, we dropped down in the cloud to Campement du Chevreuil at 1640 metres. Still in the cloud. We got the tents setup and our rain tarp strung up over our food preparation area just in time. Then it started to rain. We had dinner, then cleaned up camp, placed food and smelly items that attract animal in the food cache, and then got inside the tent. I had downloaded youtube videos, so with no cell coverage, we spent a couple hours watching those and listening to the heavy rain on the tent. Then at 8 pm we went to sleep.
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| Conglomerate Flats in the cloud |
September 4, 2023 - Manson Pass (19 km)
We woke to the sound of water dripping on the tent. It didn't sound like rain and I was convinced it had stopped raining and all we could hear was the water dripping off the trees. Getting out of the tent we were greeted with a white misty world, but no rain and it wasn't cold either. We got up earlier today as the next section, from what I had read on-line, would be the most challenging. Mostly due to the Sowaqua Creek FSR being washed out and crews unable to get in to do maintenance on this section of the trail. This next section is largely the reason the Brigade 50 mile races has been cancelled for the last few years.
After breakfast we packed up the soaking wet tents and tarp. I kept the tent outside of my pack when it was wet, though all my stuff in the pack that needs to stay dry were in dry sacks. As we were eating our food, my pack was slowly getting lighter too.
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| In the rain at Campement du Chevreuil |
We set off along the trail, which stayed level for a while, before descending steeply 700 metres in three kilometres. This descent in wet shoes really did my big toes in. The wet in-soles lost their rigidity and just gave up and allowed by feet to slide forward into the front of the shoe. Not ideal but nothing I could do about it. In hind-sight I would probably have been better off hiking down in my Berkinstocks.
Near the bottom we came to a washout section of trail, were a stream had carved a three-metre deep gully. It took some climbing to get down and the up the other side of it. Crossing the Sowaqua Creek FSR, we re-entered the trail in what looked like a jungle. Tall brushes and grassed completely blocked any view of the trail, and this was largely a bushwhack. It cleared out into a dark forest with many trees down on the trail, And unfortunately for us, a family of hornets had taken up residence in a ground-hole on the one and only way around the down-fall. I got stung four time, but poor Charlene got the brunt of their wrath and was stung more than a dozen times. She was in pain. Luckily neither of us are allergic in any bad way.
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| Descent from Davis Pass through thick wet undergrowth - |
We stopped at a stream so Charlene could soak her legs in the cold water and try to reduce the burning and swelling. We had no antihistamines with us, nor any hydrocortisone. all we had was cold compresses and After Bite lotion. Next trip definitely bringing antihistamines and hydrocortisone. Charlene understandably miserable and in pain for the next hour or so. but we had to keep hiking. The way we were going was the shortest route out anyway. Other than hitting the SOS, there was no other option.
The trail did clear up as we hiked and it became a pleasant hike, with just a few easy to navigate trees down here and there. It seemed to take forever to reach Colville Camp, where we had planned to have lunch. And it was late afternoon when we finally arrived. We stopped here for lunch, and to filter water from the stream.
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| Washed out trail - now how to get across.... Photo credit: Charlene Waldner |
Beyond Colville Camp we knew we had a big steep climb followed by an equally big steep descent, and both would not be easy. While it wasn't raining, it was cloudy and at higher elevations we were in the clouds. For lunch we had instant mashed potatoes mixed with dried vegetables and skip jack tuna. On a cloudy day, the hot mashed potatoes taste wonderful and gave us energy for the climb. I like the single serving packages of Idaho Potatoes as they require no additives (like butter or milk) - just boil 500 ml of water, pour in the potatoes and wait two minutes and they're ready to eat.
The climb up Manson is brutally steep at best of times, and I still don't know how they got loaded down pack horses up those steep trails. The climb was made worse by downed trees, and over-grown trail in places. As we're getting close to the coast, the trees are much bigger, and much more difficult to navigate around. Then there's the curse of the switchback. Climb around a massive downed tree, only to switchback and have to do it all over again. We climbed over, squeezed around, and crawled under countless trees on this section.
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| Crossing the Sowaqua River. Photo credit: Charlene Waldner |
After climbing steep 200 metres in elevation the trail comes to "Fools" Pass. This is named because it looks like a Pass and you would think you had summited it; however, it isn't the pass and the trail makes a turn and climbs another 400 metres to the true summit of Manson Pass. There is a short side-trail to a view point, but as we were in cloud it made no sense to go and look.
Then the trail dropped down just as steeply. It was slow going, partly due to footing, but also due to nine massive downed trees. I cursed every one of them. In two kilometres the trail dropped 600 metres and we finally arrived at Manson Camp. The time was 7:30 pm - just 30 minutes before sunset. Distance of 20 kilometres today and some of the hardest hiking I've ever done. Charlene must hate this section of trail, During the Brigade Race she rolled her angle on the Sowaqua to Colville section, and this year she got attacked by hornets.
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| Colville Camp - our late lunch stop |
We placed our tents on two of the three tent pads, and then ate the rest of our food, except some food we had for breakfast the next morning. Dark at 8 and in our sleeping bags by 9 pm.
September 4, 2023: Hike out to Hope (17 km)
We woke at 6:30 and intended to be hiking by 8 am. It was a nice morning and a dry night, so the tent was actually dry. That made it easier to pack. We set off down the Peers Creek Trail, which follows an old FSR. It soon drops out onto a disused FSR; disused because the road was washed out further down. We came to a sign for hikers advising us not to proceed on the FSR as the washout was too dangerous to cross, and instead follow a temporary flagged trail that takes us up the mountain to a safe crossing location.
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| Manson Camp |
I managed to screwup the crossing. And instead of following the pink ribbons with HBC Trail printed on them, I followed pink ribbon with nothing printed on - these marked the construction zone boundary. I figured that out only after climbing up and bushwhacking, only to find marked tree with no way of getting through them. Back to the river and we found the trail lower down. I'd missed a turn just before the rocky river crossing.
Finally back on the FSR and on this side of the washout, definitely evidence of use. Recent caterpillar tracks and moved dirt, and new retaining walls along the way. As this FSR is being reopened, a new HBC trail is being built on the other side of the creek. Still I was happy to have an easy downhill hike along an FSR for today. At the bottom we passed the Peers Creek Trailhead and after another 1.5 km the road became paved. We crossed the Coquihalla River and under the Coquihalla Freeway (Highway 5), then followed Othello Road to Hope. As the river floods had done a lot of damage here, there was a lot of constriction along the way. It was too bad the river had washed out bridges and damaged the Othello Tunnels, as that was my initial route to hike into Hope. As it was, Tunnels Rd was completely washed out too, so there was just no way to get to the tunnels anyway. Othello Road all the way it was. We hiked into the Coquihalla Campground at 12:30 pm.
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| On the detour around the FSR washout Photo credit: Charlene Waldner |
We paid $40 and set the tent up on a forested site near the showers. And those showers were wonderful. Very clean large, with sink, toilet, change area all to myself. I paid $4 for two tokens to give me 12 minutes of pure bliss! And used every second of it. We also did our wash in the laundry and got rid of all the garbage we had packed out from the back-country.
Then we walked a half kilometre to Homestead Restaurant for an early dinner and beer. I was sooo hungry. And the food was delicious.
Afterwards, we walked into the centre of Hope to a pharmacy to get some treatments for Charlene's hornet and wasp stings. Then a stop at a grocery store for some snacks, then back to the campground. Watched some videos (we had cell coverage here) and asleep by 9 pm.
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| Crossing the Coquihalla River and back into Civilization |
September 5 - Travels Home
We packed up quickly. Everything was bone dry. Then an easy 1.5 km walk to the centre of Hope and to the Blue Moose Coffee Shop for breakfast. The the first of four buses, three trains and one ferry to get home.
"If you're interested here they are:
- 8:36 am - BC Transit Bus 72 Hope to Chilliwack. Beautiful run along Highway 7 to Agassiz, where the bus became the 71 Chilliwack and continued through Agassiz and Rosedale to downtown Chilliwack, arriving there at 9:45 am.
- 10:15 am - BC Transit Bus 66 Fraser Valley Express. A nice fast run along the Trans-Canada Highway, with very limited stops in Chillwack and in Abbotsford. The bus, whcih runs hourly during the day and more frequent during the peak periods, was standing room only after leaving Abbotsford. We pulled into Lougheed Town Centre SkyTrain Station at 11:45 am.
- 11:55 am - Translink SkyTrain Millenium Line to Commercial Broadway, then SkyTrain Expo Line to Waterfront, then SkyTrain Canada Line to Bridgeport Station, arriving there at 12:50 am
- 1:00 pm - Translink Bus 620 Tsawwassen Ferry Express. We almost missed the ferry due to a useless driver that couldn't be bother to get to the stop in time for his shift, and when he did fianlly show up 20 minutes late, he had time to get his Tim Hortons coffee. Lucky for us, the full bus and the driver, the ferry was running late, so we all made it on the ferry. Maybe the driver was having a bad day....
- 2:10 pm - BC Ferries - Ferry to Tsawwassen. Arriving at 3:50 pm.
- 4:00 pm - ride with a friend of Charlene's we met on the ferry to Uptown.
- 4:40 pm - BC Transit Bus 95 Victoria - arriving downtown at just before 5:00pm.
- Walk home from there - arriving home about 5:15 pm.
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| Photo credit: Charlene Waldner |
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