Orcas Island 50 km: For the Pure Joy of Running

I first ran Orcas Island 50 km in 2017 and decided to run it again this year. The last time I ran it I had a time of 7:21 and my plan this time was to have a similar time or better. But James Varner (Race Director) had other ideas.

Friday February 1, 2019 was the travel day. I travelled down there with Charlene Waldner, who was also running the 50 k.  The direct Washington State ferry from Sidney to Friday Harbour did not run January to April, so we had to go the long way round by taking BC Ferries to Tsawwassen, then the Peace Arch Border (the poor border agent hadn't been paid for so long that he'd forgotten the difference between meat and vegan muffins), and finally the ferry from Anacortes to Orcas Island.  Getting the "express" 2:35 pm ferry to Orcas put us at the bunkhouses by 4 pm, with lots of time to get ready for the race and have dinner in Eastsound. Most of the Victoria (Vancouver Island) runners were in the same bunkhouse: Karen Laberee who came over on the 7 pm ferry,  Kyle Weagant, Darran Tannas, Holland Gidney and Dave Campbell.  Lisa

Kinglet Bunkhouse, Moran State Park, Orcas Island - Vancouver Island racers quarters for the night.

I got everything ready for race day Friday evening. My usual setup for a winter race was to carry two 600 ml bottles with 200 calories of Tailwind nutrition in them, a litre of fresh water, and 6 baggies each with 200 calories of Tailwind. I plan for 200 calories per hour, and 500 ml of water per hour.  I also carry salt tabs, and several packets of pickled ginger.  The forecast was 5 degrees, no rain, no wind. Perfect weather for winter running. I carried an extra Marino wool layer, a waterproof jacket, and an emergency blanket. It was a pretty light load for a trail run, but I wouldn't need other survival gear on this race course.

I planned to have one drop bag at North Arch where I would pick up my trekking poles for the climbs up and over Mount Constitution.  I put another layer in it just so it wouldn't be empty after I'd picked up the poles.

Saturday February 2, 2019 - Race Day
The nice part of staying in the bunkhouses is that they're right at the start/finish line. That allowed us to stumble out of bed later, get dressed and walk to the start line still half asleep.  I taped my toes and put on my aging and almost at end of life Brooks Calderas.  I took two pairs with me and glad I did. On one pair the tread was pulling off on the outside, the on the other pair the insoles were worn out and falling apart. I salvaged the insoles from the tread-disintegrating pair,  picked the best two shoes and used them.  The peeling away tread might not have been a problem, but it's a tripping hazard and potential loss of grip I didn't need.

After joking that he'd changed the course and it was now six repeats up powerline, and after telling us to follow only the pink/yellow ribbons and arrows, Race Director James Varner started the race by telling us to "get out of here".  And we were off - about 250 runners.  The course had a cut off of nine hours (start just after sunrise and finish lines closes just before sunset), and an elevation gain and loss of 2600 metres over six big climbs and countless small ones.  While in this report I split the race into legs between aid stations, when running I actually mentally split the race by the six big climbs.

Ready for the start of the Orcas Island 50k

Start to Mountain Lake Aid Station (10 km)
This leg has the first big climb and a major change in course from two years ago. In 2017 the course went straight up Mount Constitution Road to an elevation of 600 metres before we joined the trail down to Mountain Lake Aid Station, which in that year was at 7.5 km mark.  This year we started up Mount Constitution Rd, but after 1.4 km and climbing 100 metres, we turned off it, onto down hill trail to join a trail beside Cascade Creek. This single track gently climbed for two kilometres to the dam at Mountain Lake.  Crossing under the dam we then climbed a bit more topping out at 300 metres, before descending to join Mount Constitution Road and a 3 km climb to Little Summit at 600 metres.

My strategy for this climb was to run 50 paces, then walk 1 minute and repeat. I found this a great way to climb the road. Mostly I would count to 50, then say to myself "I can do 60", then "I can do 70", then "I can do 80".  The goal was to not let my legs hit lactate threshold, but to stay fresh and in control of the climb.  I was happy with the results and passed quite a few runners on the way up.

Once at the top, we turned onto single track trail and a fun descent down to Mountain Lake Aid Station at the 10 km mark. In all this leg took me one hour, 22 minutes. In 2017 it took me one hour, 11 minutes to do the 7.5 km - so I think I was faster this year given the extra distance and elevation caused by the new route.

I filled up one water bottle and added more Tailwind at this aid station. The goal was to be out of the aid station in under a minute.

The long climb up Mount Constitution Road to Little Summit

Mountain Lake to Mount Pickett Aid Station (23 km)
From Mountain Lake Aid Station we ran along the shore of Moran State Park's largest Lake, Mountain Lake.  We passed the dam we passed earlier, then ran along the east shore of the lake on an undulating but fairly easy trail.  My legs felt a bit rubbery at first due to the pounding my quads took on the steep down hill from Little Summit to the aid station. My heart rate felt a bit high, but it settled down later in the race as I warmed up.  Once past Mountain Lake, the trail took us up to Twin Lakes, and then on a rather sketchy single track trail around the lakes.  This section was slippery in places and worth slowing to a walk to avoid slipping into the lake (which happened to one runner, who was so wet and cold she had to withdraw from the race - she was on beer duty when I got to the finish line).  Once around the Twin Lakes, the single-track trail began a gentle climb to the summit of Mount Picket (the second big climb) at 530 metres.  I used the same technique on this climb, running 50 to 80 paces then walking a minute.

The view to Victoria from the climb up Mount Constitution Road to Little Summit

At the summit the course turned off the fire road and onto single track, though some runners ahead of me missed the turn. I yelled out to the them that they were off course. Another runner had selflessly ran after them to tell them they're off course, losing time on his run in doing so. I love how trail runners look out for each other.

The down hill runs where the reward for the hard climbs.  And this single track was fun and flowing but ended abruptly with a 90 degree right turn and instant steep switch back up Mount Pickett - the third big climb.

No running up this hill, just hands on knees and trek up the hill, maintaining an even pace and controlling breathing and heart-rate.  Don't look up, because seeing other runners hiking up well above you can be discouraging. In all it's only 150 metres elevation gain and took me 12 minutes to climb. Once at the top, we're back on the fire road for an easy run down to the aid station.  I arrived at Mount Pickett Aid Station at 11:11 am. In 2017 I had arrived here by 10:57 am - so i was 14 minutes behind last year. However, I had travelled two kilometres further so far due to the earlier change in route. I would call this ahead of 2017.

Mount Pickett to North Arch Aid Station (33 km)
After a quick refill of water and a drink of coca cola, I was off on the single track as we headed down the west side of Mount Pickett, then turning south and finally west to begin the fourth big climb back over the south ridge of Mount Pickett.  As before, I dug in and use my hands on my knees to get up the steep single-track climb.  Once up, the single-track was a beautiful gentle down hill to the Cascades Waterfall. Turning the corner and running towards this waterfall was amazing. I wanted to drink it. In front of the waterfall, we take a right turn over a small wooden bridge with the spray of the waterfall misting us. We climbed up some rustic wood and mud steps, and then across the main road through the park.  From here it was a relatively level run (some ups for sure) along the shore of Cascade Lake, over a bridge and finally up a short steep hill to the aid station. I'm happy to say I ran the hill passing about five runners who were hiking up.  I was feeling good and happy to get to North Arch at 12:45 pm.

North Arch showed up at 33 km this year. In 2017 it was at  31 km and I arrived at 12:30 pm.  Given the extra distance, I'm still calling it a draw.

North Arch to Mount Constitution Aid Station (42.5 km)
Now for the fun part of the entire race - Powerline.  This is the biggest climb on the course with an elevation gain of just over 500 metres over four kilometres.  It's really not that bad. It is steep, especially at the bottom, where it can be muddy as well. Once up the first section is a fire road that is extremely steep in places, but has relatively level sections that let you recover between the climbs and take on nutrition.  Top tip - use trekking poles!

View from 750 metres summit of Mount Constitution

I grabbed my poles out of my drop bag at North Arch and ran across the road to the start of the climb. The first bit was a nice small warm-up, then it levelled as it traversed east, then the main climb began. With the trekking poles I got into a good pace, digging the poles in and I could feel the power as they reduced the load that my calves, glutes and quads had to handle. I passed ten runners who where hiking up without poles; when I looked back I could not even see them as I got closer to the top.  The poles helped me climb Powerline ten minutes faster than last year.

From here the single track down the back of Mount Constitution towards Twin Lakes was my favourite trail on the entire course.  I did get a quad cramp shortly after starting down this run.  It came on without warning and I had to stop. This was where the pickled ginger came in.  I took a salt tab first (more longer term precaution to ensure enough electrolytes) and then a mouthful of pickled ginger. Amazingly the muscle cramp went away completely within a minute and I was able to run again.  No need to stretch the leg (just don't relax the muscle while it is cramping, it will only make the cramp worse).

Before long the fun down hill run ended and the last big climb began. This was a 350 metres climb to the summit of Mount Constitution where the aid station was located. I arrived at the aid station at 2:28 pm.  In 2017 the aid station was at Cold Springs due to snow preventing vehicles accessing the summit of Mount Constitution. But in 2017 I passed the summit at 2:20 pm. so I made up seven minutes between North Arch and the summit over 2017.

Mount Constitution Aid Station.

Mount Constitution to the Finish Line (51.5 km)
The final run leg was a joy to run. It is mostly downhill, with the exception of two "insult" hills in the last kilometre.  Leaving the aid station, I ran along the most spectacular section of the course, where the trail goes along a bluff at 700 metres above sea-level with views all the way to the North Cascades and much of the San Juan islands. The clouds had lifted to give us this amazing view.

The Tower at the summit of Mount Constitution

We crossed Mount Constitution Rd at Cold Springs and after a level section of easy running trail, the course went left, up a slight hill, then began a long 550 metres descent to Cascade Lake. Just after the start of this descent my left hamstring cramped. Same protocol as before - salt tab and pickled ginger - and a minute later I'm back to running with no pain and no cramping.  I loved this down hill. The poles were useful on some technical sections, and for pole-vaulting over creeks but mostly I carried them in my left hand as I ran.  Once down, I just attacked the two insult hills with purpose, pushing myself now as there's nothing left to save the legs for. The single-track dropped down quickly onto Mount Constitution Road. I crossed this, then ran on a short single-track before the last short climb up the fire road we started down, and finally into the finishing chute.

I finished at 3:33 pm - with a time of 1:03 minutes from leaving the aid station at Mount Constitution (I stopped to take a picture there). About the same time it took me in 2017.  But given the course was about 1.5 km longer this year over 2017, I think overall I did slightly better this year.

I was totally happy with the run. I felt great the entire time, had a strong climb up power line and up to the summit of Mount Constitution. The last 20 kilometres of this course were my favourite.

Thanks to Rainshadow Running, James Varner, Elisabeth Reese and all the volunteers who make this happen. Definitely want to come back next year and run this one again.

Orcas 50 k GPS track. For some reason my watch lost GPS contact between 30 and 32 km around Cascades Lake. Actual track goes around the left shore of Cascades Lake, not through it.  

Elevation profile of the Orcas 50k showing the six main climbs of the course.  And the two little "insult" hills after the last big down hill.