In 2020 I had planned to run White River 50 mile in July, and Cascade Crest 100 mile in late August. But like everything else in 2020, they were cancelled and registrations rolled over to 2021. This left a big hole in motivation to run and train, so Charlene and I decided we wanted to do our own 50 miler in July. It gave us something to aim for, and fill a need to run some long distance.
I planned the route to take in as much runable trail as possible, with elevation that was close to what we would expect at White River. So that would be 2,500 metres elevation gain over 80 kilometres. I also wanted to start and end at the same location to avoid getting a ride (a risk in these COVID-19 times).
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| The Private 50 Miler Route |
Two friends and ultra-runners, Lisa Fehr and Markus Pirker both agreed to help us out by doing aid stations along the course. I like to carry fluid and calories for about three hours, so I had planned the aid station locations for roughly those distances. We would need about four aid stations.
I had decided to use my Ultimate Direction FKT pack, as it allowed me to carry two soft flasks up front, and I carried a litre of fresh water as well. The weather was good, no rain forecast, but I carried an extra layer, some first aid stuff, pickled ginger, salt, duct tape, Swiss knife, 600 lumen waist light, small 100 lumen emergency light, InReach for emergencies and tracking, trekking poles, and my phone. And a camera of course. I always carry duct tape. It is so useful. I've used it to repair pin holes in my water bladder, and on Reckless Raven 50 miler used it to hold my pack on when the two sternum straps broke at the same time.
Start to Ross Durrance Aid Station (15 km)
We started at the Thetis Lake over-flow parking lot at the corner of Atkins Rd and Six Mile Rd. We started here mainly because I didn't know for sure if we'd make it back before sunset, and didn't want the car to be inside a locked parking lot at night.
We set off at a slow run up the road to the main beach, then on the trails along the south side of the lake, joining Phelps Trail at the stairs. My legs felt good. I felt really good with no issues as we kept a steady pace along Bellamy trail to Westoby Rd. From here we followed the Stewart Mountain trail that took us up the east side of the mountain. We made good time so far, mostly running. The climb up Stewart is steep and we hiked most of it. We turned off the fire road climb and took an unnamed single track that brought us out in the power lines at the back of Stewart Mountain. From here we join the main fire road as it climbed up towards the top of Davies Rd.
We turned right and followed the connector tail that lead us to Munn Road and out of Thetis Lake Regional Park. This is a fun trail to run along in either direction. Crossing Munn Road and heading down the hill, we joined the trail network of Mount Work Regional Park. Keeping moving we ran along Corry Trail, the through the two rusted old gates to Kinghorn Cabin.
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| Old gates heading to Kinghorn Cabin and Raven Ridge |
Now we had a steep climb up Raven Ridge Trail. At the top it levels and makes for a beautiful run to Giants Junction. From Giants Junction, we ran along an unnamed trail, past the fairy door, and first down hill, then up to the main Summit Trail on the north ridge of Mount Work. From here it was all down hill to the aid station. We arrived about 10 minutes ahead of my estimated time at 9:20 am.
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| Ross Durrance Aid Station |
Ross Durrance to Rowntree Aid Station (27.5 km)
It was great to see Markus waiting for us at Ross Durrance. At this point all I wanted was to refill my water and Tailwind nutrition.
Leaving Ross Durrance, we ran along Timberman Trail in Gowland Tod Provincial Park. The first section is quite runable, and we could make good time. Then it becomes steep, climbing about 200 metres in one kilometre. I still had not used my poles and left the stowed on my pack. We power hiked up the mountain. Running the level sections, and hiking the hills to the summit of Joceyln Hill.
Climbing Jocelyn a couple hikers heading down said "You're almost there". Charlene and I just looked at each other and Charlene muttered "you have no idea".
I absolutely love the summit of Jocelyn Hill. The view is one of my favourites in the area and makes the climb worth it. It is spectacular looking down the inlet towards Mount Finlayson, and over to the Malahat and Sooke Hills beyond.
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| On the Ridge Trail. Gowland Tod Provincial Park |
We left the summit and scrambled down the steep rocky section, then ran along Ridge Trail as it played peekaboo with the views. One minute in the forest, the suddenly out on a rocky bluff for a view before heading back into the forest.
Before long we climbing the short steep climb up Holmes and then the down hill to Caleb Pike, before the last long uphill on Rowntree Trail. Then we're on the gravel Rowntree fire road that led us to the paved road and our second aid station. Lisa and her two son's Mattias and Timothy (Tmo) were at the gate ringing cowbells to cheer us on. They ran down a head of us to the van and aid station. We were about 15 minutes ahead of the estimated time at just before noon.
Rowntree to Stebbings Rd (53 km)
At the second aid station, I had some watermelon, coke and M and Ms, but mostly just wanted water. We refilled out bottles and added Tailwind again for the next section. Then we were off along Rowntree Road and Finlayson Arm Rd and onto the Mount Finlayson "backside" trail in Goldstream Provincial Park. The trail is a fun down hill before starting the climb. We peeled off the main trail to go around Finlayson on the Bear Mountain mountain biking trails - the Canada Cup Trail.
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| At Rowntree Aid Station with Lisa and Mattais |
We were feeling strong when we hit the day use area at Goldstream, holding back a bit on the steep descent to spare the quads. Through the tunnel under the Trans-Canada highway, then the steep climb up the Niagara Canyon, crossing the river above the waterfall, and climbing higher to just below the trestle bridge where we joined Goldmine Trail.
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| The Tunnel under Highway 1 |
This section was mostly a power hike. The trail is tough to run, until the gold mine, then once past the mine, it becomes a beautiful runable trail. Some steep down and up sections, but before long we were at the Goldstream campground. We stopped to fill our water at a tap in the campground. One rule of ultra running is always take on water when you can as you never know were the next water source is going to be. It was pretty warm out and this was a long stretch between aid stations, so out of caution we refilled and reloaded tailwind too.
We nipped out of the campground on a unofficial trail that took us to the railway. We ran along the railway line for about 200 metres or so to the Suspension Bridge on the Great Trail. For those that don't live on Vancouver Island, the railway line is disused, no trains have ran on it since 2011.
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| Suspension Bridge on Goldstream on the Sooke Hills Wilderness Trail (the Great Trail) |
The Great Trail take us on a long 6 km up hill through the northern section of the Sooke Hills Wilderness Park. The Red Gate at the top is my goal when running up this trail. It's a bit of slog because its a repurposed logging road (Niagara Main). The first section from the bridge is a steep relentless climb. We just power hiked up this. Don't look up, just keep moving. Once up it levels and is quite runable, once you convince your legs to run again. There are two more steep sections, with long flat or gentle up or down grades to run between. After the last steep section, there is a gentle up hill and some curves, around the last is the Red Gate.
The Red Gate is the highest point and end of the Sooke Hills Wilderness Park. Beyond here we're on a right-of-way across privately held land to the border of the Capital Regional District and Cowichan Valley Regional District. Another nice thing about the Red Gate is we're only 2.5 km away from Trail Way and our aid station. We were both getting hungry and wanting some Coke and solid food, so were really looking forward to arriving at Trail Way. So we set off running. This section of trail is rolling with short steep hills. The last steep down hill takes us close to Wigglesworth Lake then up a hill to Trail Way.
And no Markus!
We were about 30 minutes ahead of our scheduled time, but I assumed Markus would be watching my InReach tracker. He was but he was still on the Malahat, about 15 minutes away. I texted him back to say we'd meet him at the turnaround at Stebbings Road.
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| On the Great Trail |
There are two ways to go from Trail Way. Along a unimproved single track trail over Warwick Ridge, or along the road. We had been walking along the road as we texted, so decided to continue hiking up the steep road to where it connects with the resumption of the trail. I find this section of the trail disappointing. A wide over-built road with no marking for anybody using the great trail, no direction signs, no gravel sidewalk or bike lanes, or anything. It's a fail on the part of the Cowichan Valley Regional District and Ministry of Transportation who owns the road.
Once back on the trail, it has some really long steep hills to deal with, before the last down hill to Stebbings Road. We arrive at Stebbings Road at 4:10 pm.
Stebbings Road to Goldstream (68 km)
We took some time here to fuel up. I drank a bottle of coke, had handful of M and Ms, some potato chips and two and half popsicles. One of them I dropped and had to get another. Chalene changed her shirt and picked up her headlamp from her drop bag. I had a change of shoes and shirt in a drop bag too, but my felt felt great and I didn't feel a need to change, so didn't. We both got our trekking poles out for the return trip. After a 20 minute break at the aid station, we set off hiking while still eating a popsicle.
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| Telling the quads to stop complaining on the long down hill back to Goldstream |
We made good time on the way back along the way we had come. Our time back to the gate was almost identical to the time it took to get from there to Stebbings Road. My legs felt a bit twitchy, the start of muscle cramps. I'd forgotten where I had put my salt tab, so I used some of Charlene's salt instead. I took on salt a few times in the next hour and that seemed to solve the problem.
From the gate to the suspension bridge took is about 40 minutes, not bad on tired legs. We arrived at the Campground at just before 7 pm with Lisa and Mattais cheering us in.
Goldstream to Finish Line at Thetis Main Beach (80 km)
We quickly fuelled up and added more water for the last leg. I knew this leg would not be easy - some very technical trails and a 200 metres climb to Bear Mountain.
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| Aid Station 4 at Goldstream Campground |
We set off and ran and power hiked our way along Prospector Trail. under the Trans-Canada Highway via the river, then the start of the climb. We were tired but focussed and kept moving. Power hiking when we could not run. Once we were at Bear Mountain, and knowing it is all down hill now, we knew we were almost home. We took it cautious down Flow Line Trail - it is super steep in sections and not much grip. Once on the gravle road it was an easy fast run to Millstream Road. We crossed that, and ran along Millhouse Trail into Thetis Lake Regional Park, and finished along Phelps Trail and the trail along the south side of the lake.
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| At the finish line - 80 km done. |
It was great to see Lisa, Mattias and Kent at the beach waiting for us to finish. Thank you guys for being there. It felt good to be done. I was feeling stronger the longer we ran. I had no low points and felt good all through the run. We finished at about 9:20 pm, about 14 hours and 19 minutes. And our watches recorded 3,077 metres of elevation gain, more than I expected.
We walked back to the car, and Lisa had brought her fire pit and burgers for us. We sat around with them relaxing, hydrating and eating. That was a great way to finish the run.
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| Campfire and help with shoes - after the run. |
A big thank you to Markus, Lisa and Mattais for being there for us - we could not have done it without the support. And Kent for being at the finish line to cheer us on in. It made for an awesome fun day. It amazes me how fast time passes when on the trails - 14 hours didn't feel that long.
