Reckless Raven 50 Mile Race

I've always had a fascination with the Yukon, probably influenced by the writings of Jack London, as well as stories of the Klondike. So when I saw a 50 mile race in the mountains just west of Whitehorse, I signed up right away. Then figured out how I was going to get up there. Lucky for me Air North started direct flights between Victoria and Whitehorse on Fridays and Mondays. In typical airline misleading lingo, direct means same plane service, with as many stops as they want to include. So this direct trip was via Kelowna.  The "old school" approach to flying was such a refreshing change. No fee checked baggage, in-flight free food service (and awesome hot chocolate chip oatmeal cookies), free candy, and no entertainment.  With free checked baggage, while the flight was full, there was a lot of space left under seats and in overhead bins, making the cabin feel much more pleasant than on Air Canada or WestJet.

Late arrival in Whitehorse on Friday. But in the land of the midnight sun, it's felt much earlier. I walked around Whitehorse until well after midnight, enjoying the daylight. It never went fully dark, just dusk between 1 and 2 am, then full daylight again after that. 

Yukon River at midnight in Whitehorse

Saturday was a day of rest. An opportunity to drive out to a couple of locations on the race course and check them out. At Raven's Ridge, true to it's name, there was a conspiracy of ravens - in the trees, on the roads and on the trails.  Saturday was also an opportunity to get a parking ticket. Again "old school" style. Not having coins for the meter (and I didn't know coin operated meters still existed), I had to park and go in to a store to get coins. When I got back out I had a parking ticket on my rental car. The only car on the street. It must have been a beacon for the likely bored parking inspector.  This ended well because when I got home,  I phoned Whitehorse bylaw enforcement to explain what happened, and they graciously and apologetically cancelled the ticket for me.

At 4pm I went to check-in for the race and listen to the race briefing. The usual. Follow the flags, you'll get your feet wet on two river crossings, make noise and don't get eaten by bears. All good. 

Start to Raven's Ridge Aid Station:  00 km - 10 km   

Elapsed time: 00:00

First thing was to check-in and complete the mandatory gear check.  Hat, gloves, extra layer, whistle, water (I had one litre mixed with tailwind in two 500ml bottles plus one litre fresh water in the reservoir), calories (I had 17 hours of tailwind, 3400 calories), and emergency blanket.  Then I left my drop-bag for the half-way check-point. In it I had a new pair of Brooks Calderas with 50 km on them, a change of marino wool shirt and tailwind. 

Reckless Raven Start Line at 6:00 am July 1, 2018

In my pack I was carrying, in addition to the mandatory gear, pickled ginger, hockey tape, duct tape, swiss army knife, small charger and charging cable for the Fenix 3 watch (which I didn't think I'd need), extra connector for water reservoir and an extra pair of socks.  And Fireball.

The worst part was waiting for the race to start. On this race there were solo runners (like me) running the entire 80 km route, and relay runners doing half the route. We all started together at 6 am from outside the door of the wax room at the Whitehorse Cross-country Ski Club.  We started under cloudy skis and temperatures around eight degrees Celsius, perfect for running. The start was uphill on a wide ski trail before going into the forest on beautiful single track bike trails. After climbing gently, we had a fast gentle down hill and then some gentle rolling single track along a bluff with views to our left. Early in the race the running pack was pretty close together and we were running pretty fast for a trail race, arriving at the first aid station at Raven's Ridge 10 km from the start in just over one hour.

Elapsed time: 01:03

Ravens Ridge to Haeckel Hill Aid Station:  10 km - 18 km  
I only stopped long enough to dip my electronic "dipper" to record my arrival at the checkpoint. I was carrying enough water and mixed tailwind for three hours, so I continued along the dirt track trail to the first water crossing.  This was calf deep and super cold, but we were soon across and then on Fish Lake Road. We had to run along the paved road, which at first was up hill, forcing us to a walk, walk/run. After three kilometres on the road we turned right onto a dirt single track road then started the climb to the summit of Haeckel Hill. A climb of 650 metres - from 800 metres to 1450 metres. I settled into the climb. At this point I was with Sandra Hardy, who was just behind me. So focused on climbing that I missed a turn. Sandra called to me and I went back and onto the single track trail behind her. She got out her hiking poles and shot off up the hill. I didn't see her again until the finish line. 

Climbing Haeckel Hill - view of Whitehorse from 1400 metres

At first the climb was gentle and steady, but then it got very steep. This was a downhill mountain bike trail, and the top part was extremely steep dirt trail with little foot or handholds. I was getting light headed, feeling a little sick and my heart-rate was way up.  I had to keep stopping to get it under control. I attributed this to the altitude and less oxygen than I was used to when doing this.  The views were magnificent and I enjoyed them while gasping for breath.  It took me an hour and 10 minutes to climb the six kilometres and 650 metres to the aid station at the summit.

Elapsed time: 02:43

Haeckel Hill to Sumanik Aid Station: 18 km - 33 km  
Leaving Haeckel Hill aid station under the big white wind turbine, I headed down a steep trail then a turn onto a marked way.  Not much of a trail. Just a gully with race flags suggesting we attempt to go this way.  With so much mud and debris on the ground, this steep down hill was slow going. Then across a small grassy valley and up onto the eastern part of Sumanik Ridge.

Sumanik Ridge and Sumanik Mountain are probably the highlight of the race. There was no trail. The route was marked with race flags, but otherwise it was a desolate wide mountain top ridge with peat bogs, rocks, potholes, roots and moss covered rocks. In short extremely hard to hike and not runnable. At 1700 metres elevation it was windswept, overwhelming and raw Yukon wilderness. The views were fantastic.

Sumanik Ridge

It's hard to describe Sumanik Ridge. Tundra might be the best description, with rocks and roots spaced perfectly to trip you up if you tried to run. We had 13 km of this non-trail mountain top to traverse. I could see the mountains in the distance and just knew we had to climb all of them before the descent on the other side.  It took 2.5 hours to traverse the ridge once I got onto it.  Luckily the flagging was all line of sight and well marked and fairly easy to find. There were a few places I had to hunt a bit for the flag.

Following the flags along Sumanik Ridge

Approaching the last of the mountain tops to climb, I was getting worried I wouldn't make the cut-off at Jackson Lake. I still had to climb the mountain and then find my way down to the next aid station before continuing to Jackson Lake.  I'd been "running" 5 hours, 10 minutes, so I had just 1 hour, 50 minutes to make it to Jackson Lake.

No trail, trying to run cross-country at 1700 metres on Sumanik Ridge

I swore a lot at the mountain on this section. Frustrated that I couldn't run much. I would run some of the smoother looking sections. Picking my way through wiry undergrowth, or feet sinking into peat bogs was really frustrating and annoying.

Finally the flags started down the hill. Even the trail coming off the mountain played with me. It went down hill then decided to do a sharp right and take me through head high bushes, with roots and branches making passage difficult. But finally it dropped down and into the aid station.

Elapsed time: 05:43

Sumanik to Jackson Lake Checkpoint:  33 km - 38 km  
At Sumanik Aid Station I refilled my water bottles and mixed more Tailwind. And I had an ice Popsicle. That tasted so good and refreshing.  I set off on the cart-track downhill towards Jackson Lake. A few minutes and my left hamstring decided to cramp. Not a surprise and usually happens to me on a down hill after a sustained climb.  I got out my pickled ginger and ate some of that and a couple minutes later the cramp had gone. I was able to run the entire way to Jackson Lake. It felt so good to run again. The track levelled out at Franklin Lake and then a little up hill and finally the half-way checkpoint.  I made it with 50 minutes to spare to cut-off.

Leaving Sumanik Ridge Aid Station with my popsicle

Elapsed time: 06:13

Jackson Lake to Sunshine Valley Ranch Aid Station:  38 km - 43 km  
I ran in and dipped my tracker to record my arrival (I did this at every aid station).  A volunteer retrieved my drop bag, got me a chair, and helped me change my old Brooks Calderas for a newer pair of Calderas I had placed in my dropbag. I loaded up the extra tailwind I had left in the bag and another volunteer filled my water bottles for me. Then I was ready to go.

Sunshine Valley

Leaving the checkpoint there were fresh runners just starting their leg of the relay. This stretch was quite a pleasant run. At first on a narrow gravel track, then we turned onto a grassy cart track in the forest that was fairly smooth and easy to run.  It was gentle up hill, punctuated with some steep short descents into gullies followed by a climb out.  After a sharp right turn, the trail led past some horses, then to the aid station near the second and larger river crossing.

Elapsed time: 06:53

Sunshine Valley Ranch to Fish Lake Aid Station:  43 km - 53 km  
I had no need to stop at this aid station, so I thanked the volunteers, and just plunged into the icy cold water of the second river crossing. The cold water on my legs felt so good. Once across the cart track climbed out of the river and then gentle up hill. In places it was quite muddy, with the ground churned up by vehicle tracks. I settled in for a long climb that involved running and walking. Trying to run mostly with shorter walking breaks.  Muscle cramps returned on this ascent, and once again pickled ginger worked its magic and I had no problem climbing the unnamed mountain.

Second River Crossing

None running friends ask me what do I do or think about to avoid boredom while ultra running. Truth is I spend most of my time managing my body. First is water. Am I drinking enough? Staying hydrated. Second is calories, am I taking in enough, or too much? Third is salt and electrolytes. Am I getting enough of them? The mixed Tailwind nutrition takes care of water, calories and electrolytes for the most part, but I do carry salt tabs in case I need just salt. Fourth is muscles - how are they feeling? Are any getting close to cramping, or hurting? Should I ease off a bit or push them a bit more? Fifth is feet. Am I feeling any hot spots? Do I need to stop and take care of them? Sixth is body temperature. Am I cold? Should I put another layer on? Even when running, it's easy to get hyperthermia, especially if it is windy and raining. And finally through all that, constantly watching footfall and searching for the best path through to run. I try not to think of beer and food at the finish line until I'm within a few hours of finishing.

I passed a few relay runners on this leg.  So far I had still not come upon one solo runner and I was beginning to think I was DFL. That means Dead Fucking Last.

On un-named mountain - Bonneville Lake in the distance

As I reached the summit of the un-named mountain, the wind and rain hit. I was cold, but I didn't want to stop to put a jacket on. I moved as quick as I could and soon turned left onto the trail that took me off the mountain and down to Fish Lake.  I could see the lake in the distance.  The trail down was steep and rooty, but it was relatively runnable. I'm pretty cautious on these down hills, but I know other runners would just let go. The trail dropped right into the aid station and I ran in and touched the Canadian flag that was hanging at the entrance. I nice way to celebrate Canada Day.  In every race there's a point where I get emotional and in this race it was here. It usually happens after a long period of running and then stopping at an aid station. No idea why, maybe adrenaline, it just happens.

Elapsed time: 08:39

Fish Lake to Mt McIntyre Aid Station:  53 km - 60 km 
Yukon Whiskey!  After running 54 km, a shot of Yukon Whiskey tasted so good and warmed me up inside. Loaded up with water and more mixed tailwind, and Yukon Whiskey, I was on my way along the gravel road. I ran along the lake enjoying the view. My pack felt a little loose so I pulled on one of the two sternum straps to tighten and the strap came off the rail on the left side. Oops. Good thing I have two. Still running I pulled on the second one and that one also came off the rail. Now I was screwed.  I still had almost 30 km to go and no straps to hold my pack on. 

Now a bit of problem solving. I didn't want to go back to the aid station. So still walking I took inventory of what I had that would help me tie the pack onto me. I had duct tape in my pack. I could stop and get that and then wrap it around both shoulder harnesses.  I also had a whistle on a lanyard and a electronic dipper thingy on a Reckless Raven Lanyard.  I ended up wrapping the Reckless Raven lanyard around both shoulder straps, pulling tight and tying a knot.  I took a test run and it held - bounced a bit but not too bad. 

Knuckle Ridge

I soon turned off the road and started a steep climb up to Knuckle Ridge.  This was as steep as the first climb but unlike that one I seemed to have adapted and felt pretty good climbing it (though I wasn't particularly fast).  On top I had flashbacks to the hours I had spent on Sumanik Ridge clomping over tundra and rocks. The landscape was the same but mercifully much of the trip over the mountain was much shorter. The wind had picked up and it was raining lightly, so I was starting to get cold. I didn't want to stop to put a jacket on, and as it wasn't a long stretch I felt I'd be okay. But I monitored how I was feeling closely. The views from here to Whitehorse in one direction and over Fish Lake back to the mountains I was previously on were fantastic.  The course soon rejoined a trail for a fun run down to Mount McIntyre Aid Station.

Elapsed time: 09:53

Mt McIntyre to Copper Haul Rd Aid Station:  60 km - 73 km 
Second last aid station and 60 km into the race. From here the course took us on a short loop over the summit of Mount McIntyre following a beautiful bike trail called Blown Away. It got it's name from the exposed section at the top, which on a calm day, like today, was windy.  I enjoyed this trail. At first climbing gently then steeply through the small trees then abruptly entering a barren plateau. I could see the trail winding up in the distance and I just knew it was going to take me over the summit of the mountain I could see in the distance.  Once over the summit, I had a fun down hill run on single track and then the gravel Mount McIntyre Road that took me back to Mount McIntyre Aid Station - in all a fun 35 minute loop.

Blown Away mountain bike trail on Mount McIntyre

My Tailwind tasted funny since filling with water at the aid station. I started to wonder if they had filled it with the nutrition drink GU mix instead of water. The water and GU were next to each other in identical containers.  They put "water" in the bottles for me and I added my Tailwind. If they did, then the mix would be too rich and I could risk gut issues later.  As I was passing through the aid station, I would check on the way back and until then just drink fresh water from my reservoir and sip the Tailwind.

I checked on the water issue when I got back to the aid station and was satisfied it was water. The taste could either be from water purification or they previously had an energy drink in the container.  I left the aid station and enjoyed a  fast downhill run along Mount McIntyre Rd for about 1.5 km.  The course turned onto a snowmobile track and then a single track. And climbed gently. By now I was tired and just wanted to get off the mountain. As I moved as fast as I could on the trail (it was a hard trail to run) I questioned out loud "why the fuck isn't this trail going down hill". I had 700 metres elevation to drop down to the finish line and this trail didn't seem to want to go anywhere near it.

Then my watch GPS decided to have fun with me. I had the route on my watch, which was useful to double check I was on track and also to give me distance remaining, estimated time to the finish line and estimated time enroute. For some reason, my watch decided to show me running 90 degrees to the course. I couldn't figure it out as I didn't remember seeing another trail. There were no flags nearby and I hadn't passed one for a while, so it made me question whether or not I was on course.

I turned around and ran back to see if I had missed a turn. As my watch now showed me going backwards along the course I decided I was okay and turned around. Then my watch showed me going 90 degrees off course again. It made no sense. So, feeling frustrated, I turned around again.  This time I saw another runner approaching.  Good, I was on course or she's lost too.  I turned around and decided to keep going and ignore the watch. I hadn't seen another runner for hours, so no way was I going to let her pass me now.  Around the next corner the welcome sight of a race flag. And my watch had decided it had had enough fun and was showing me on track again.  If you look closely at my track on Strava, you'll see a little blip where this drama happened.

By now I'm wondering if this trail will ever end. I imaged my friends from Victoria who are running this solo - Sandra Hardy, Lisa Cantwell and Walter Cantwell,  - all finished and drinking beer while I'm still slopping about out here in mud and dirt.  So I starting singing badly and loudly.  Did that ever make me feel better and gets me moving faster. Plus it keeps hungry bears away too.

The trail finally decided to head down hill. Not gently. No. Steep as in slide down on your ass steep! I stopped at the top of the first steep drop and said aloud to nobody "You've got to be fucking kidding me".  This was a mountain bike trail for mountain bikers that don't live to tell about it.  After several slides on my ass in the dirt, rappelling down several rocky cliffs and climbing over boulders the size of small houses, I was finally on Copper Haul Rd. The road magically appeared; one minute I'm looking down into a Jurassic valley abyss with no sign of civilization, the next I'm on a well constructed gravel road.

I ran along the wide gravel Copper Haul Road as it gained elevation gently. After three kilometres I arrived at the last aid station.  After what felt like a never ending road, where I was the only runner visible, the aid station popped up quickly after I had rounded a gentle bend in the road. I ran into the aid station through the arch and accepted the offered cup of ice cold water.

Elapsed time: 11:53

Copper Haul Rd to Finish Line:  73 km - 83 km 
I was told there was 10.7 km to the finish line. My watch elapsed distance was 75 km, which suggested 5 to 6 km to the finish line. My navigation screen told me 9.8 km to the finish line.  I believed the navigation screen, so I settled in for another 9 to 10 km. 

I took a rice crispy square, loaded up water for the final stretch and then left through the exit arches.  That rice crispy square was so good, I wished I'd picked up a few more. I debated going back for more, but decided that was not a good idea.  Leaving the aid station, the term "trail" was a generous word to use for the water logged, muddy and boggy track I was following. It was more like a swamp that some crazed person had placed flags across because they thought it would be funny to take runners through it. Something I would do!

Beautiful wonderful wet deep mud on Mordor Trail

The "trail" took a sharp turn and then up a steep hill. Once on top, pure running bliss.  A beautiful orgasmic smooth pine needle (or whatever needles they are in the Yukon) ski trail appeared to go endlessly through the forest.  Feeling good I made decent speed along here. I felt like I was floating along through the forest. The course turned off this onto a single track that was equally smooth and fun to run along a bluff overlooking a small river.  A suburb of Whitehorse appeared across the valley. Not far now.

I passed several runners along this stretch - some relay runners and two solo runners. Convinced I was DFL as I had seen no other solo runners for most of the day, I politely said hello as I passed, but secretly pleased I was no longer DFL. The single track started to climb gently. Passing another runner, I encouraged her. "Only two kilometres to the finish. You've got it." I was determined to keep running. I can certainly hold this blazing pace for two kilometres - that's not far. Okay - blazing is relative. After 80 kilometres, any forward movement can be considered blazing. As it was I wasn't going much slower than I did in the first 10 km of the race. I just ignored the complaining quads. If they're not cramping, I'm running.  Run. Drink Tailwind. Run. A hill, focus, keep running. Down hill, let it rip.

Now onto a fire road - gentle up follow by some fast down hill. I turned onto the final fire road/ski road and a short uphill.  Temptation to walk was great but I knew the finish was just up there and there were people watching. I had to run. No matter how slow. Once up the short steep hill, I was on the bridge crossing the road and then 200 metres gentle down hill to the finish line.  Crossing the line, I dipped my electronic thingy one last time and turned off my watch. 

The Finish line

I got my finishing medal (hand carved out of Cedar) and Reckless Raven beer glass, that was promptly filled with local beer. I'd been thinking about that beer ever since leaving the summit of Mount McIntyre.

It was 7 pm, I'd been running for 13 hours.

Elapsed time: 13:05

Final Thoughts.
I enjoyed the race. The stretch over Sumanik Ridge was certainly out of my area of experience. I've done off trail runs before but I've had no experience in terrain like that.  Out there alone on the windswept mountain, with every rock, pothole, tuft of tundra, mud hole, peat bog and the weather threatening to kill or injure me, it made me question the wisdom of signing the waiver at the start of the race.  But also glad that I was carrying emergency supplies because rescue out of there would have taken a long time. 

Time to relax and recover. Take time to let my body repair all the micro-damage I'd done today. And then start building distance again for Mountain Madness Brigade 50 Mile race over the HBC 1849 Brigade Trail over the Casacade Mountains.  Just 60 days after Reckless Raven.

Notes:
Distance:  83 km
Climbing:  2800 metres
Calories burned:  8,709
Elapsed time:  13 hours, 5 minutes
Highest elevation: 1750 metres ASL (summit of Mount Sumanik)
Lowest elevation:  750 metres ASL (at start)

Gear Used and Nutrition Consumed:
Pack: Ultimate Direction PB v.2 Vest
Shoes: Brooks Caldera (x two pairs)
Nutrition: 3000 calories consumed - Tailwind)
Water:  6.5 litres consumed

Emergency Gear:
Ultimate Direction Rain Jacket
Compass
Map
Whistle
Space Blanket
Gloves
Hat
Two buffs
Small First Aid kit
Duct Tape
Swiss Army Knife
Extra Tailwind
1 litre of fresh water
Phone