Eight Days on the Sunshine Coast Trail

 Since we hiked the Sunshine Coast Trail (SCT) in two sections last year, Charlene Waldner and I wanted to through hike it this year.  With 178 km and over 8200 metres elevation gain, it is a perfect leg conditioning hike for our up coming Cascade Crest 100 trail run. 

The ferry from Little River at Powell River - 7:50 am

Day 1: Wednesday Lake (12 km - 625m elevation gain):

We set off early from Victoria. Really early. At 2:30am.  The reason? There was a festival in Powell River and BC Ferries advised in its website that the 9:55am sailing would be overloaded for walk-on and cars, and to get there early. So we did, early enough to get on the 6:15am sailing instead. Like last time, we left the car parked in the BC Ferries parking lot for the week (only $5 per day nd super convenient), and walked on the ferry with everything we needed in our packs, plus two cardboard resupply boxes.  

The original plan was a shared four wheel drive shuttle from Town Centre Mall to the Sarah Point trailhead with a couple from New York state. Unfortunately, they emailed to let me know their first flight was delayed and they won't make it until the next day. Sunshine Coast Shuttle were super accommodating and said they'd work something out. 

The start of the journey - ahead 180- km and over 7,000 metres elevation gain, and about a couple million biting bugs

Arriving in Powell River, we walked to nearby Base Camp for a great breakfast sandwich, then up to Willingdon Park to rest and wait until it was time to walk up to meet the shuttle.  While Charlene did yoga in the morning sun, I leaned against my pack and checked for any emails regarding shuttle plans. Sure enough there was one asking if we could go at 10:30 am. Of course we could. Earlier the better. We walked up the hill and met the shuttle at 10:15.  We stopped at the airport to pick up two guys from northern Mexico, Rodolfo and Fernando, who had flown up to hike a trial in Canada. 

We got talking in the shuttle as we ran on smooth road to Lund, then rough four-wheel drive track after that to the trailhead. On the way we stopped at Shingle Mill Pub to leave our resupply boxes. Rodolfo and Fernando planned to hike as far as they could each day and finish on Monday next. We told them we planned to finish two days earlier on Saturday. For day one they had planned to get to Manzanita Hut; we had planned to get to Wednesday Lake. I'd picked Wednesday Lake because it looked beautiful, it was a hot day and a lake at the end would be nice, there's lots of water there to filter and drink (Manzanita we have to haul our water up the mountain), and I figured it would be busy at Manzanita bluffs on a Saturday as it is also an easy day hike on a side trial from Lund. 

Sarah Point - our starting location (wrong camera setting makes it look dark)

We arrived at the Sarah Point trailhead at noon, and by 12:10 pm we set off with our first steps on our through hike of the SCT. Eight days and seven nights in the wilderness. Just us, bears, cougars, coyotes, snakes, grouse, and as the elevation got higher, an ever increasing supply of tiny biting bugs.  

The the leg of the SCT to Wednesday Lake is relatively easy. Which means it's not easy, but it is substantially easier than the rest of the SCT. There are no big climbs on this section, The biggest is right off the bat at Sarah Point with a 150 metres climb out of the point and over the bluffs. Then lots of little climbs and some technical trails. It took a while to get used to the packs. With only three days of food and two litres of water each, they were not at their heaviest, but I still needed to adjust to hiking with the pack.  Charlene and I hiked together and didn't see anybody, except at Bliss Landing Cabin. We stopped at a small waterfall just before Wednesday Lake to filter water and fill up our four litres. it was a hot day and we both had drunk our two litres of water each on the hike.

Wild camping on a bluff above Wednesday Lake - with "hiker" wine!

We got to Wednesday Lake by 5:30 pm to find two hikers already there who had staked the only viable camp spot on the rocks near the lake. We climbed up a small bluff behind the lake and found a nice flat spot, perfect for camping.  

Wednesday Lake - our first night

Wednesday Lake is really a wild camping spot with no facilities. There is an old outhouse but nothing else there. But it is beautiful location. Charlene went swimming and I put my feet in the water. So nice! 

An hour after we arrived, Rodolfo and Fernando came into camp exhausted and decided to camp there too. I told them there was a flat spot next to us on the bluff and they set up there. 

The start of our trail family - Fernando, Rodolfo, Charlene and me

While the sun did not set until almost 9:30, we were in our sleeping bags by 8 pm and I fell asleep immediately.  After all, it was a long day given we were up at 2 am. 

Day 2: Sliammon Lake (28 km - 1173m elevation gain):

Up at 6:00 am. We got into a routine, where Charlene would get the jetboil going and make breakfast, after she had packed up her sleeping gear. I would do mine and then take the tent down. Rodolfo and Fernando were also awake and up and asked us where we planned to go. I told them Sliammon Lake (the first one of the two Sliammon lakes camping spots) and they said they planned to go there too. 

Hiking out from Wednesday Lake

After packing up we then set off at 7:20 am, stopping to filter water at the outlet creek for the lake (flowing water has less silt to clog the filters so I prefer it).  Today was a long hike in hot weather. The first bit was the 250 metres climb over four kilometres to Manzanita Bluffs, where we stopped for an early lunch. The view from here was beautiful and with line of sight to the Lund mobile tower, we had four bars reception on our phones too. 

Forbidden Plateau, Mount Washington, Mount Albert Edwards and the Comox Glacier, viewed from Manzanita Bluffs

Continuing on down the bluffs, then over two more hills and some beautiful easy smooth single track. Out past the Manzanita fire road and we were hiking along the route of the Marathon Shuffle; a Club Fat Ass event that happened weeks earlier. We stopped at a creek to filter water (Plumper Creek) before dropping down close to sea level. After a railway grade type trail, we came to the biggest climb of the day, an easy to under-estimate 350 metres climb up to Rivelery Pond. The trail is named Marathon Trail and is a beast of a climb (this is where Marathon Shuffle gets its name). The climb is easy at first but then the top is mostly on exposed hillside, so the heat and lack of wind meant a lot of water drinking to get up there. 

We passed through Riverlery Pond camp area and stopped at Appleton Creek. A beautiful location in the forest. We decided to have dinner here. We took our packs off and got the jetboil out. As we were having dinner Rodolfo and Fernando came by, we chatted a bit and they continued on to Sliammon Lake. 

Big trees

We had only 4.5 kilometres to Sliammon Lake - the first two were all down hill following Appleton Creek passing beautiful waterfalls. Despite the proximity of the creek (and it was a roaring creek) it was stifling hot with no wind. Finally we climbed over the crags and then the steep rocky down hill to Sliammon Lake and the camping area by 7:37 pm - a nice 12 hour day including stops. I figured I'd filtered over 12 litres of water today and we drank all of it on the hike.  The camp areas was in the forest next to the lake with some nice sandy wide areas to camp, and a rather old looking pit toilet. Like Wednesday Lake there were no facilities otherwise, so wild camping again.  There was one other tent pitched on the trail with a sleeping woman inside. First order of business, feet in the lake for me and a swim for Charlene.  

Cooling off in the streams we passed

As we had already had dinner, I simply pitched the tent, and then we tied our Ursacks with food, isopropane and other smelly stuff that attracts animals, to a tree in the forest about 60 metres away from camp. I was asleep by 8:30 pm.  

Home for the night - Sliammon Lake

Day 3: Our Trail Family Gets Bigger  (28 km - 815 m elevation gain):

Up at 6 am. Today we met Maja, the girl in the tent on the trail. She was solo hiking and planned to get to Haywire Bay today. We told Rodolfo and Fernando that our plan was to get to Anthony Island on Inland Lake today - about 28 km.  They said they would too.  

We set off at 7:40 am (notice a trend of getting going later as the days go on) for the hike to Little Sliammon Lake and then over a small mountain (150 metres climb) before the steep drop down to Shingle Mill. We arrived Shingle Mill pub abut 11:30 am.  

Mowett Bay on Powell Lake - a nice hour to relax on the way to Anthony Island on Inland Lake

We sat out on the deck and had lunch - and it tasted sooooo good. Trail food was fine, but real food tastes so much better.  On the trail we were eating oatmeal for breakfast, somedays we had pop-tarts, trail mix, beef jerky and other snacks for lunch, and a hiker meal, or Ramon noodles, or mac and cheese for dinner. We also brought packages of tuna to add to the meals, as well as dried beetroot and mushrooms. Today lunch was cauliflower bites, burger and fries and a Fat Tug IPA. I was going to regret this! 

As we were loading our resupply, Maja had arrived, and was ready to go and she waited for us so we could hike together.  Rodolfo and Fernando needed to go grocery shopping so they got a taxi into town. We said we'd see them on the trail or at Anthony Island. 

In the hot sun, Maja, Charlene and I set off on the hike to Mowatt Bay, where we arrived about an hour later and stopped for a break. Maja and Charlene went for a swim and I had a nap under my umbrella to keep the sun off me. I wasn't feeling great. The pub was good enough to fill our water bottles, but used a tap at the bar that hadn't been used all day -  the water was tepid and not a joy to drink on a hot day.

Maja on the partially collapsed All Ages and Abilities bridge on the way to Anthony Island

We continued the hike and the section out of Mowat Bay was over a bluff with a 100 metres climb in the hot sun. I felt a little sick and I think it was from hiking on too much carbs in my system and not enough water to dilute it. The tepid water wasn't helping. I dragged along knowing there was a tap at Haywire bay with freezing cold potable water. That kept me going.  

Trail Family dinner on Anthony Island (Charlene was taking the picture).

The trail along the lake was beautiful, but hard to enjoy when you're not feeling great. At Haywire Bay we found the tap, and checked it was working, before dumping the tepid water and filling with the beautiful cold tap water. I drank a half litre right there. We took a rest here and I felt so much better as we climbed out of Haywire Bay.  Maja decided to keep going with us. 

We eventually dropped down onto the All Ages and Abilities trail that goes all around Inland Lake. After a kilometre or so we came to the front country campground. A park warden was there and asked if we were camping there or at Anthony Island. We said Anthony Island and she said enjoy, it's three kilometres from here.  A few minutes later we passed some car campers at a picnic stable having dinner, and Bubly water. As we passed they asked if we were doing the SCT and we said yes. Then I noticed the Bubly and commented something like "Oh, look Bubly!".  They gave us each a can of Bubly, which tasted soo good after a long hot day hiking. 

The walk along the lake while easy, felt like it went on forever. I noticed my heels were feeling like they were being rubbed, and knew I had to check them. But I didn't want to stop so I left it until we finally arrived at Anthony Island at 6:20 pm.  

My old running shoes with over a 1200 km on them had worn out at the heel, leaving the plastic to rub my ankle. Duct tape on the shoe and tape on the heel solved the problem for the reminder of the hike. Dinner with the trail family and then asleep around 9 pm. 

Sunset on Inland Lake - to the cry of the Loon

Day 4: Could that be Hyperthermia? (22 km - 1880 m elevation gain):

Up at 6:00 am again and after our efficient packing up, we were off at 7:50 am. Maja left ahead of us and we confirmed with Rodolfo and Fernando that we were planning to camp tonight at the summit of Tin Hat. It was a cooler day, overcast with rain in the forecast, so we put the rain covers on the packs. 

Today was a big day of climbing. The first was the 600 metres climb up to Pearson Pass and Confederation Lake. The trail was partly single track, the partly old forest road then a well constructed but steep switchback trail up a dark valley after beautiful Stealth Falls, Once through the pass, the trail became rough along the south side Confederation Lake with lots of mud masquerading as rocks. We arrived Confederation Lake Hut in time for lunch and by this time we were all hiking together as we had caught up to Maja and Rodolfo and Fernando caught up to us on the climb. Rodolfo sent up his drone for some amazing video and pictures. 

All packed up and ready to - yes everything fits inside the pack. With two litres of water and still five days of food, it weighed around 15 kilos. Water and food accounts for about six kilos of the weight. 

It felt cold at Confederation Lake and I was happy to get going again after eating snacks and filtering water. The trail took us over Vomit Bluffs (I think this is so named as it is the first glimpse of Tin Hat the the big climb coming up). Then from the bluffs a nice down hill all the way to Fiddlehead Junction, where Maja, Charlene and I stopped for snacks. Then we hiked across the valley towards Tin Hat, passing what looked like a deer murder - bones scattered on the trail.  

Tin Hat obscured by cloud viewed from Vomit Bluffs - still have 15 km to the summit.

Charlene set a blistering pace up the lower slopes of Tin Hat, and I gradually dropped further and further back, not wanting to push too hard knowing what was to come on this climb. We passed Rodolfo and Fernando filtering water at a creek, and went on until we reached the sign "Last Water until past Tin Hat" with a small skeleton on the sign. We stopped to fill our four litres of water between us and then carried an additional two litres of unfiltered water in the CNOC. Charlene and I shared the extra weight, which meant we both had an extra kilo to carry up the mountain.  

Murder on the trail at Fiddlehead Junction

The Tin Hat climb is super steep and unrelenting - climbing from about 100 metres above sea level to 1100 metres - so 1000 metres elevation gain in just seven kilomtres. It takes a good three hours to climb. Charlene and I just kept a steady climb, with stops for water. Fernando and Maja got behind, and Rodolfo stayed with us. While steep and hard, it actually felt good just to keep moving slowly and I could feel the burn in my glutes as they provided most of the motive power up the mountain. As the weather was cooler, with some light rain, this was an easier climb than the last time when we did in hot sweltering temperatures. 

We stopped and loaded up six litres between us here

At about 900 metres elevation the trail drops onto an old fire road. You'd think you're mostly there, but the road had several steep long climbs in store for us. After the final one when we really think we're at the summit, we round a corner only to see the bald rocky bulk of Tin Hat in front of us. As much as we deny it, we know we have to climb that too. This last part is dodgy, with the trail on rocks and in one section on a narrow rocky ledge before coming out at the Tin Hat hut. When we got up, we had a brief vista before the clouds rolled in and obscured everything - we spent the rest of the night in the cloud. 

Climbing Tin Hat in the rain.

In the hut I was shivering and took off my shirt and put on a dry layer. Still cold so I put on a synthetic fleece and my down fleece. Still shivering, so Charlene gave me the emergency heat pad we had brought along. After almost an hour lying on the floor bundled up I finally started to warm up and feel normal. 

Looking lonely on the mountain top in the cloud - home for the night. 

By now Fernando and Maja had arrived and with other's already there, and the person we passed on the climb, there were 11 people spending the night on Tin Hat. I decided we'd setup the tent. While windy and cold, there was something surreal about the tent looking all alone on top of the mountain. So I set up the tent and after eating, another early night.  

Day 5: Elk Lake and the Attack of the No-see-ums (23 km - 780 m elevation gain):

Morning on Tin Hat and still in the cloud. As usual Charlene got breakfast while I took the tent down. The tent was soaked from the mist, so I stored it on the outside of my pack to avoid getting anything inside too wet (not that it would really as I used a contractor bag to put clothes and sleeping bag in for extra precaution).

After confirming out destination, we set off with Maja down the mountain. The down on this side is as dodgy as the way up on the other. And with the rocks being wet, even more fun. Trekking poles are a must on this mountain. 

Hiking together on a section of trail to Elk Lake

Todays' hike was quite enjoyable. Rodolfo and Fernando passed us somewhere along the way. We caught up to them and then we hiked together for the remainder of the way to Elk Lake Hut. The elevation gains were mostly gentle, a lot of if on an old forestry rail bed, and some through beautiful old growth and others alongside older clear cuts. As sad as it is to see, it is the industry and we all need wood, and it opens up some beautiful vistas too.  But I prefer hiking in the woods - less bugs, more shade and more enjoyable generally.  The last kilometre is a nice 250 metres climb up to Elk Lake, at 850 metres above sea level. Nice way to end the day. At the lake we were greeted by the No-see-ums - tiny insects about 2-3 mm and they love to bite. 

We setup the tent close to the hut in a tight spot. But with the No-see-ums, we cooked our dinner in the hut, and when outside if not moving wore a bug net over my face and long sleeves and long pants.  In the tent, the No-see-ums where in the hundreds between the tent's tarp and the bug net looking hungrily at us. So glad for bug netting. 

I managed to get my sleeping quilt caught in the tent zipper, putting a five centimetre rip in it. I made a temporary repair using duct tape that held well for the remainder of the trip and kept the down inside. When I got home I emailed Enlightened Equipment, who make the quilts to ask for repair advice. They recommended Tenacious Tape that would create a permanent repair. They recommended against trying to sew it. I got the tape from MEC, and it worked perfectly and doesn't look bad either. I've added Tenacious Tape to my list of essentials for hiking as it will permanently repair jackets, pants, sleeping pads, tents and sleeping bags.  

A tight pitch at Elk Lake

Day 6: On to Lois Lake (27 km - 900 m elevation gain):

Like days before, up at 6 am and on the trail by 7:50 am after confirming the destination with Maja, Rodolfo and Fernando. This was the Lois Lake Recreation Area on Lois Lake.  To get there, the hike took us first along nicely graded old forest roads that are now mostly smooth single track - a total pleasure to hike along.  The first climb was 150 metres up to Coyote Lake, where we stopped for early lunch with all the trail family. Then after another nice flat stretch, we started to climb up Walt Hill, a 350 metres climb to the summit, with the worst No-see-um attack yet. They were so bad it felt like they were raining on my face.  

View from Walt Hill

We passed the Walt Hilton (an old fire outlook near the summit) and then after going over the summit and along the ridge, to the Walt Hill Hut, where we stopped for lunch.  

From here it was mostly an easy down hill that seemed to go forever. Maja went on ahead and we didn't see her until we got to the recreation area about 6 hours later. Rodolfo and Fernando arrived about an hour after us, after getting a bit lost around the dam. It is badly signed here and really needs attention. It's not obvious that hikers have to go through the closed BC Hydro Gate and right up to the dam to find the trail. 

Crossing the Lois River below the Dam

Other than local partiers who could care less about anybody but themselves, the recreation area was quiet. The partiers though made sure to keep everybody awake all night and leave their crushed "Lucky" beer cans wherever they pleased. Being deaf I heard nothing.  

 Day 7: Rainy Day Lake (24 km - 1430 m elevation gain):

Charlene and I left Lois Lake Recreation Area about 8:00 am, with Fernando, Rodolfo and Maja saying they would be not far behind. First stop was to filter water from a stream just outside of the camping area. This takes a while as we're using one filter and have four litres to fill. The filter is also showing signs of use and getting slower, despite back flushing it every day. When I get home I'll give it a longer backflush with warm water. 

Todays hike took us alongside Lois Lake for about 4.5 km, before beginning the big 1200 metres, 15 km climb to the summit of Mount Trubridge at 1300 metres above sea level.  I enjoyed this climb. There were steep sections but mostly it was smooth and relatively gentle grades, easy to hike. 

View from Trubridge - at 1300 metres the highest point on the SCT

We stopped at Elephant Lake to filter water. The bugs were so bad we didn't want to stop and eat here too. So with bug net on I filtered water then we got moving again, climbing up the mountain. We summited at about 2:30 pm. Lots of snow at the summit. We made a brief stop at the emergency hut then Charlene and I continued on our way. Half way down Trubridge we came across a mother Grouse and her three babies on the trail. And further down a metre long garter snake lying across the trail in the sun and not interested in moving. It decided to move as we went to step over it it.  We stopped at a location with a view and not many bugs and got the jetboil out to eat. I was starving by now and needed fuel.

The summit emergency hut and snow - Mt. Trubridge

Feeling better after eating Idaho mashed potatoes and some kind of protein, we made good time to Rainy Day Lake, arriving there at about 5:40 pm.  There are not many camping spots there, so we ended up pitching the tent in the trees next to the trail. As it was Canada Day, there were a lot of families weekend hiking the loop from Saltery Bay. Then went to the swimming hole to cool off and get water to filter.  

Charlene's little snowman

Fernando and Rodolfo arrive about an hour after us and set up next to us. We never did see Maja all day and as we went to sleep around 9 pm wondered where she had set up camp. We were sad that she wasn't with us and hoped she would still hike out to Saltery Bay tomorrow - she knew the time of the bus we would be on.

This snake had no intention of moving for us. 

Day 8: Hiking Out (10 km - 410 m elevation gain):

Lazy start to the day. As the bus didn't leave Saltery Bay until 2:10 pm, we had lots of time to get going. Back to the swimming hole for more water to filter, and late breakfast and pack up. We had planned on leaving at 9:30 am. At about 8:20 am Maja walked into camp. She hadn't reached the summit of Trubridge until 5:30 pm and ran out of daylight heading down the mountain, so decided to camp on the side of the mountain for the night.  We were so happy to see her.

Rainy Day Lake Camp

All five of us set off together and hiked the coastal trail to Saltery Bay. The trail isn't long but it doesn't make it easy with two fairly big climbs of 100 metres and 150 metres along the way. The last one feels like an insult as it's within the last kilometre to the terminus at Saltery Bay.  And it was a hot day too.  We arrived at the terminus at 1:00 pm. With an hour to relax, we raided the vending machines at the ferry terminal and then lay on the grass and relaxed. 

BC Transit Route 12 runs twice a day to Saltery Bay to meet the ferry. As the ferry was late we left 15 minutes late so people on the ferry could make the connection, arriving Powell River at just after 3:00 pm. 

Fairview Bay

We went to Costa del Sol, a Latin cuisine restaurant with a wonderful outside seating area. It was so nice to share dinner with the trail family, and a friend of Charlene's and her partner joined us there too. Following dinner we walked up to Wild Ice Cream, some of the best ice cream anywhere. Made mostly from locally sourced products, it was so refreshing on a hot day.  

At the terminus - Maja, Fernando, Rodolfo, Charlene and me - really enjoyed a hiking week with this crew. 

Then the goodbyes as we said farewell to Fernando and Rodolfo, who were getting ride up the hill to a hotel they had booked for the night. Maja, Charlene and I walked down to Willingdon Park, and relaxed there enjoying the evening sun over the ocean. Then finally at 8:00 pm, we walked to the ferry terminal and got the 8:45 pm ferry to Little River.  Then the long drive home, getting home just after 1:00 am. I was so tired. 

Wild Ice Cream to finish.