Race Report: Oldham Way Ultra 40 Mile

April 20, 2019

I had travelled to the UK in March 2018 with the intention of running the Oldham Way Ultra, only to be disappointed by the weather.  On the morning of the race I had woken up at 5 am to a half metre of snow, high winds and near whiteout conditions. The "Beast from the East 2.0" had moved further west then predicted.  As a result, metre high snow drifts, high winds, and impassable roads meant that the race had to be cancelled.

Fast forward to 2019. The race had a new date, a month later in April, which would hopefully mean better weather conditions.  I contacted the Race Director, Wane Law, and he very kindly deferred my 2018 entry to 2019. With that I booked flights and a small two week vacation around the the race.

This being Oldham, I expected rain. It always rains in Oldham. So when I packed I took running gear for wind and rain.

Race Day: April 20, 2019

Checking the weather forecast, it was showing highs of 22 degrees, sunny and no wind. How is that possible, this is Oldham, and I didn't pack for hot weather running.  I went with my lightest layer of Marino Wool - it was black and long sleeves, but the wool actually cools me when its hot more than technical dry fit shirts.  I also wore my Solomon shorts and my near end of life Brooks Calderas (there's still some tread left), my Ultimate Direction PB 2.0 Vest (really showing signs of wear but I love it and won't repleace it until it falls apart), and my feather light but super strong Black Diamond Carbon Z trekking poles. I anticipated carrying these a lot but there were sections I knew they would be useful.

Oldham Way Ultra Course Map

The Oldham Way Ultra course follows, for the most part, the Oldham Way footpath. This is a way marked route that follows the Oldham Metropolitan Borough boundary.  As Oldham is in and on the edge of the County of Greater Manchester, that means that part of the run will be in the Peak District National Park on the open moors, and part will be in urban areas.  While the route is way marked, there were places where there does not appear to be any way marks, and for this reason a route map, and knowledge of how to use it, with a compass, was a requirement of this race.  The course is not flagged.

Water was available along the course every 5 miles, and food every 10 miles.

Oldham Way Ultra - Elevation Profile

Start to Crompton Fold (7.5 km, 7:54 am)
About 75 runners were at the start line at Castleshaw Centre for the 2019 Oldham Way Ultra.  Castleshaw Centre is old farm used for educational purposes set in a valley just below the Castleshaw Reservoirs and and the beautiful but bleak Castleshaw moors.

Starting from Castleshaw Centre

At 7 am we set off up the lane and as usual setting a too fast of a pace.  We crossed over the dam of the Upper Castleshaw Reservoir, then climbed up a farm track 60 metres to the high point, before climbing over a stile, and then running down hill across a field. There was no path to follow, we just made out way down the hill to the stile at the bottom.

Crossing the Upper Castleshaw Reservoir Dam

Once over this we then ran across the dam of New Years Bridge Reservoir, across the A640, then a gentle up hill through a farm field, that ended at the farm house.  We ran through the front yard of the farm house, and onto the farm road that took us around the village of Denshaw.

Over the stile and across the fields to New Years Bridge Reservoir

We dropped back down onto the A640 and then ran alongside the road for about one kilometre all up hill. I ran waked this and got talking to Anthony on this stretch.  It was his first time on this run, but was confident with his navigation skills. We turned left off the A640 at Cherry Top Farm and climbed up the farm path onto Crompton Moor.  By now there was a group of about 10 of us and we worked together to navigate.  In some places it was not obvious. I had the route on my Fenix 3 watch and often it would be useful to make sure we were on the right course.  There really were not many landmarks on the moors to navigate by. Often we would climb over a stile and have to make a guess as to which way to go as we could not see any signs or markers.

On the Oldham Way Foortpath

On the Oldham Way Footpath - right through the front yard of this farmhouse and out past the car on the other side of the wall.

We came off the moor down a beautiful valley, then a short steep up hill before we dropped down into Crompton Fold and the first water drop.

Crompton Fold to Tandle Hill (16 km, 8:56 am)
I didn't need any water and I was feeling pretty good, so I just ran through and kept going.  Anthony was ahead with another runner and I and a few others followed them. As we were heading up a lane, I  started to think that this was wrong. I looked at my watch and saw that we were ever so slightly diverging from the actual track.  I looked left down the hill across the farm field I was pretty sure I could see a track down there and began to think that was where we were supposed to be.

On the footpath somewhere north of Crompton Fold

Anthony and the other runner had stopped at the top of the hill and were looking at their map. The lane did a gentle sweep to the right and that took use further off course, so I as caught up, I said, "we're off course, we need to be down there". We ran down through the farm field and sure enough there was an Oldham Way marker on the next stile.  We were back on course.  This was a nice path to run, with some up and gentle down hills. It ended on the A663 at the north end of Shaw and Crompton. We crossed the railway line (actually now Metrolink trams) on the A663 bridge, then turned off and climbed up a switchback trail through Dun Woods. Once through Dun Woods we were on Whitfield Hall Farm and the group had stopped wondering which way to go.

With Anthony climbing up through Dun Woods.

I knew the route again, as it was on my watch, so I pointed the way for them. Guess I'm too nice and not very competitive. But the nature of trail running is helping other runners.  It was confusing here because the route was not defined and not obvious. In one place some heavy farm equipment made the actual path hard to see.  Once through the farm yard it becomes easier. This stretch was a nice rolling country run. We got on the wrong side of a fence at Burnedge and had to climb the gate onto the B6194. The Oldham Way signs here were confusing, making it look like we had to climb over the stile when in fact we didn't.

Route finding on the Oldham Way Ultra.  With no obvious paths to follow, a good route map and map reading skills are essential.

Our group of about 10 runners were still fairly intact here, and we had fun helping each other with navigation and chatting.  The footpaths led us eventually to the summit of Tandle Hill and the Royton War Memorial. The group was slightly ahead of me here and went down a path that was different to my watch track, so I decided to stay with the watch track. This led me down a beautiful down-hill through the trees, and as it was starting to heat up, the shade was welcome.  In the distance I saw the group drop down onto my trail from a steeper staircase trail about 200 metres ahead of me.  I came to a junction and to the right down the hill saw the aid station, so I turned right and came into the aid station. The other group may have mistook a marker for the Oldham Way and went straight on, which wold eventually bring them back around. That was the last I saw of them until the end of the race.

Through a farm at Thornham

Tandle Hill to Morrisons (23.7 km, 9:52 am)
I filled up my water and tailwind here and then left running solo. This section was on lanes and there were no obvious Oldham Way markers, so I was glad of my track on my watch. Making a sharp right, I crossed over the A627(M).  (if you find British road designations confusing - this simply means its a primairy route (A road - the A627), but as it only leads to a motorway, only vehicles allowed on the motorways can use it (hence the (M)). I was passed here by two runners who seemed to be going strong and cheerfully told me they'd made a few detours.

Still together as we climbed up to the Royton War Memorial at Tandle Hill

I followed them along the lanes mindful of their navigation skills. Sure enough they ran too far down the road. I made the correct turn, which was not an obvious turn. I don't blame them for getting confused. There was a group of runners running around a park and at first glance it was easy to think they were Oldham Way Ultra runners heading down a path there. The two runners popped out of a side trail further down, smiled and said "another detour".

Running along the towpath of the Rochdale Canal - opened in 1776 this was a busy waterway, now replaced by trains on the adjacent mainline and the M62 motorway. The canal is now used by leisure traffic.

After a sharp left turn I was now running alongside the Rochdale Canal, and would be doing so for the next 6.5 km.  I ran/walked along here, pacing myself. I enjoyed the canal, but after a while the tow path became monotonous. Parts were gravel and easy to run, other parts stone flagging and harder to run and sections were rough cobbled and almost impossible to run.

With Matt alongside a disused canal (a branch of the Hollinwood Canal) in the Medlock Valley near Daisy Nook.

Along here another runner caught up to me. Matt Collins from Royton and this was his first ultra.  He stayed with me as I walked/ran the route and it was good to have company.  After crossing the M60 and rejoining the canal, we came to the water drop where we stopped to fill up.

Morrisons to Bardsley Bridge (32.7 km, 11:05 am)
Leaving Morrison water stop, I mentioned to Matt I just wanted to be done with the canal.  Finally we came to where my watch said it was time to turn off the canal in Failsworth. Crossing through a residential area, the footpath took us into Brookdale Park, then a sort distance on Hulmes Rd before heading back onto a footpath to take us into the Medlock Valley. We added a bit of distance by following the trail along the river, rather an the access road.

On trails in the Medlock Valley

The Meadlock Valley was beautiful. I actually use to live close to the valley further up near its source in Springhead. In my childhood I spent a lot of time playing in and longside the River Medlock.  The footpath climbed up the bank on the east side of the river and then followed it for a distance, before climbing a stile into a farm field. From here we joined a disused canal and ran along the tow path, before crossing back over the M60 and into Daisy Nook Country Park.  We ran through Daisy Nook, climbed up a short steep section to join the tow path of another disused canal (a branch of the Hollinwood Canal) and followed this to Bardsley Bridge.

Bardsley Bridge to Kiln Farm (40 km, 12:29 pm)
The day was starting to heat up quickly and it already felt hotter than the forecast 22 degrees. In fact, it actually hit 26 degrees that day. There was no cloud cover, no wind or breeze so it made it that much harder to cool down.  And there was little shade as most of the route was on moorland or farm fields with no tree cover.

Along side the River Medlock

After fueling up we left Bardsley Bridge, and then I realised something was missing. I'd left my trekking poles back at the aid station. I told Matt I had to go back for them. I ran back got them and then eventually caught up to Matt again.  For the last several kilometres I haven't needed them as its been mostly flat running.  The trail started climbing up and became a nice single track. I had done this section lat year. when the race was cancelled I did my own run and this section was part of it. The difference was that last year it was snow covered and slippery muddy. This year it was dry and much easier to travel along.  After climbing up the side of the valley, the trail dropped down to Park Bridge, where Matt's partner met him with freezes. Thank you Matt, that was a live saver.

Hartshead Pike - just off the course and actually in Tameside (Ashton-under Lyne).

After a beautiful stretch along the River Medlock, we eventually reached Abbey Hills Road (the B6194).  My dad's grandma used to live close to here, and for a while we lived in this area too. So I knew my way around here quite well. Crossing Abbey Hills Rd, we ran along side the road to the junction of Lees New Road. We crossed here then joined the footpath to Hartshead Pike. The stone tower at the summit of Hartshead Pike, built in the 1863 to commemorate the marriage of HRH Albert Edwards to Princess Alexandria, can be seen from most parts of Oldham. Hartshead Pike is actually the name of the hill, though most people refer to the tower as Hartshead Pike or "The Pike". Most importantly for me it was a place I used to go to a lot when I was a child. It was visible from my bedroom window at my grandmas house and we often went up there for picnics. The view from the Pike is beautiful and on a clear day you can see as far as north Wales.

Dovestones and the moors from Lydgate Hill

We followed the footpath across the farm fields climbing up to a spot just north of the old tower. I told Matt I had to go up to the Pike as it meant a lot to me. So we parted ways, Matt continued on the race course and I climbed up the short path to sit on the ledge of the tower.  I spent a few minutes there enjoying the view and silence.

Getting up, I ran down the hill and back on course, following the route down Hartshead Lane, turning right onto Knowles Lane to Kiln Farm and the water drop.

Kiln Farm to Bin Green (53.2 km, 2:42 pm)
I left my poles at Kiln Farm and had to go back for them.  From Kiln farm the route was on some narrow lanes down into Grotton, before climbing up over Lydgate Hill through farm fields. The climb was not too bad and the poles were helpful. The view of Dovestones was gorgeous and the down hill run fun.  The footpath ended at the A6050. A short distance up this road I turned right into a farm yard, through the gate, and then along the path across the fields and down to the A670. A short distance up this road, then over another stile and down hill, over the railway line, then along side it before coming out on a residential street in Mossley, and a surprise aid station set up by the Mossley Runners.

Closing the gate behind on another farm on Lydgate Hill

From here the course followed the Huddersfield Canal for a short distance. Once I turned off I had a 120 vertical metres climb up on farm tracks. From here the course went onto footpaths again, and into the Peak District National Park. I was hot and wishing for some wind and sure enough a little wind came up. That felt so good.  I had muscles cramping by now, mainly from lack of salt I think - considering I hadn't brought any with me.  I had a lot of pickled ginger with me and I ate that, the ginger getting rid of the muscle cramps and the salty pickled juice in it helping with the salt deficiency.

I ran/walked the foot path as it took me into Chew Valley. After a section through a wood, I saw a runner ahead of me and caught up to him. It was Matt. Another runner caught up to us, I didn't get her name. I did at the time but I've forgotten. The three of us ran together along the footpath that took us down to Dovestones Reservoir and around it, crossing over the Yeoman Hey Dam, then up the steep hill to Bin Green.

Bin Green to Finish (65 km, 5:02 pm)
From Bin Green, Matt and I followed the route as it at first followed an old farm track then turned up through farm fields heading to Pots and Pans, a rock on top of Alderman's Hill.  There are a lot of rock formations up here. Pots and Pans is so named because the rock has basins carved into it, most likely by the weather, though there were legends that druids used to use the basins in the rock for other reasons. Regardless, Pots and Pans is another place I used to frequent as a child. I would get the 184 bus to Uppermill and them climb up to Pots and Pans. The view from up here is even better than Heartshead Pike.  There is also a war memorial up here next to the rock.

Saddleworth War Memorial at Pots and Pans on Saddleworth Moor- at 450 metres, highest point on the course (GoPro lens had fogged up by now).

Once we got up to Pots and Pans we stopped and rested against the rock. Then, when ready, we set off over the moor. This part of the run became confusing. At first we had a track on the moor to follow, then we turn onto another track. All was good. Then the track on my watch had us turn off that and cross the moor with no visible track. So we ended up pushing our way through bracken and heather, which was slow going. There wasn't an obvious target to aim for so we just followed the track on my watch, finally we could see a fence line and made for it. We found a stile but it was in bad shape, with the step board being loose. When I stepped on it, it moved, I slipped, my leg cramped, and my had snagged barbed wire. That wasn't fun.  Once I got the leg cramp under control, I tried again to get over, trying not to let the board move and trying to keep my leg straight so it wouldn't cramp again.

Pots and Pans

I had to deal with quite a bit of muscle cramping on this run. I had forgotten to bring salt tabs with me and I'm convinced I was not getting enough salt in me to replace what I was sweating out. I did have a lot of pickled ginger with me, so I ate that which stopped the cramps, plus the salt in it would help replenish my salt stores.

From here we had a nice down hill taking us off the moor and through farm fields. This dropped us down onto a lane at the bottom, which took us through Diggle. then we started the climb up onto Standedge Moor (pronounced stan-age). The footpath passed close to the Standedge tunnels entrances and as we passed a Trans=Pennine Express train entered the tunnel at speed.

Making our way across Saddleworth Moor - going on compass direction here

The Standedge tunnels fascinate me. There are four tunnels that run about 5 km under the moors. One of the tunnels is a twin track busy mainline train tunnel and it carries trans-pennine and local trains between Manchester and Huddersfield. One of the tunnels, the first to be built, is a canal carrying the the Huddersfield Canal 5 km under the moors. This tunnel has been restored and is open to recreational boat traffic. The other two tunnels are single bore abandoned train tunnels. They're maintained and kept in good shape as they are emergency access tunnels for the canal and operating train tunnel. Cross passages connect all of the tunnels together and they all share the same ventilation shafts. Some ventilation shafts have water diverted to rain down them - this brings fresh air into the tunnels - a sort of 19th century form of air conditioning. The rest of the shafts provide ventilation and pressure relief for passing trains in the tunnels.

The climb up to Standedge Moor was not steep but it was a long. At first we were on a farm track then onto a footpath. The path passed by a ventilation shaft for the tunnels which by now were 200 metres below us. The footpath finally brought us to the A62 alongside a small reservoir.  There was an extra aid station here that was welcome and unexpected.

We crossed the A62 and from here we were on farm roads to the finish line. It was mostly down hill and run-able, barring leg cramps. About a mile from the end Matt couldn't run due to leg cramps. I gave him some pickled ginger and went on ahead.  It was hard to run at this point but I kept telling myself so long as the legs don't cramp just keep running, it's almost over.  There were two short hills to go up. Running up the last one I stopped to walk at the top and realised I was so close. I ran again and across the finish line in 10 hours, 2 minutes.  Happy to be done on a hot day and low on salt reserves.

And the after a much needed massage, we were off the the pub for a much needed pint.